The first mentions of Pri Kolovratu – “kolovrat” is the Slovenian term for a spinning wheel – date back to 1836, but the inn had probably already existed in the early 19th century, when Ljubljana was the capital of the French-ruled Illyrian Provinces. At the time, different inns attracted different social classes. Initially, Pri Kolovratu was popular among Catholic pilgrims on their way to important pilgrimage destinations in this part of Europe. But it soon became best-known as a gathering place for Slovenian intellectuals.
In the 19th century, the writer Fran Levstik and the opera singer Josip Nolli were just some of the illustrious figures who frequented Pri Kolovratu, according to the inn’s present owner, Tina Oblak. Then, after World War I, the inn became the headquarters of the Penates, a loose association of leading Slovenian intellectuals, who got their moniker from Roman household deities. The group included such diverse figures as the painter Božidar Jakac, the literary great Oton Župančič, the poet Lili Novy, and the literary critic Josip Vidmar, who would later become a prominent Communist politician. The architect Jože Plečnik planned some of his greatest works at the inn, where he also regularly met with his structural engineer.
The Penates represented one of the most important groupings of thinkers and creative people in Slovenian history – many of its members would leave a lasting impact on Slovenia’s cultural and political life. The inn’s owner recognized their significance; they were always assured of receiving the best table.
Over the years, the importance of Pri Kolovratu declined. Ownership changes, political turmoil, and changing habits caused it to lose its special status. Recently renovated, the inn is popular among tourists, but it’s still struggling to attract a loyal clientele of locals – people who would once again make the historic inn a Ljubljana institution.
